Deck Staining 101 – 10 Simple Deck Staining Tips

Deck Stained with Armstrong-Clark semi transparent Super Cedar

Having spent a lot of time staining decks and fences,  it does not take long to figure out that most homeowners that stain their own decks (not all) end up unhappy with the results. They are unhappy because after all of their hard work the stain just doesn’t perform as advertised. It seems that over night their beautiful project begins to fade from the elements. They are unhappy because the result is always the same … a poor looking deck that always in need of some maintenance.

The solution is n0t hard at all. If you want your deck to look like a pro did it then you have to stain it just like a pro would. This means paying  close attention to some simple steps for success. These steps, when followed correctly, will give you an amazing looking deck or fence with a long lasting finish.

Step 1 – Be Patient

I can’t say this enough. Take your time with every step of the deck or fence staining process. Nothing will have a greater impact on the finished product than this one simple step. This can mean waiting for new lumber to dry sufficiently to accept the stain properly. New wood is WET and as you already know we recommend oil based stains, oil and water do not mix. This can also mean increasing the dwell time for the stripper to work at removing the old stain/sealer. It can also mean taking your time not to slop stain over anything that gets in your way. Or, it can mean waiting until the weather is favorable. For all the steps, be patient and do it right the first time!

Step 2 — Preparation

You have probably heard this before. Preparation is the key to a great looking deck or fence. Every piece of  wood needs to be cleaned well before staining, new or old. New decks and fenced need to be cleaned to remove “mill scale,” which is a crushing of the wood grains during the milling process. If this step is skipped, it can prevent stains from properly penetrating into the wood’s surface. On an older graying deck, or one covered in dirt, mildew or old stains all need to be removed prior to staining. Sodium Percarbonate cleaners are a great choice for unsealed decks and fences. These cleaners are very effective at cleaning the wood yet they won’t harm plant life and vegetation.

If there is a build up of old stain/sealer on the deck, then gets a little harder but not impossible. Instead of a sodium percarbonate cleaner, you will need to use a stain stripper. Stain strippers are a little more harmful (follow the directions carefully), but they work great and will remove most stains in a single application. If there are any small spots of stain that did not  come off during the cleaning process, they should sand off fairly easily using a palm-type sander once the deck is dry. If you leave these spots on the deck, they will show through the new finish and you will be unhappy once again.

Step 3 — Brightening

This has to be the easiest step to do (but one that is most often skipped) and will have a dramatic effect on the final results. Deck brighteners are easy to apply, they help open up the surface of the wood to improve penetration, they neutralize any stain strippers or cleaners that were used in the previous step, and they restore the appearance of old weathered wood to the way it looked when it cut from the tree. Keep in mind that when you use a deck cleaner or deck stripper you are changing the PH level of the wood surface. Brighteners neutralize the deck cleaners and deck strippers, bringing the PH level of the wood surface back to normal levels.  I said that the brighteners were easy to use:  All you do is spray them on and wait, then you rinse the deck or fence… there is no reason not to use them!

Step 4 — Use a lot of Water

Use lots and lots of water after using any deck cleaners or deck strippers. If you do not do this, these chemicals can resurface and begin attacking and breaking down the new stain. Once you are done cleaning, rinse the deck like a mad man or woman to get all of the cleaners and strippers out of the wood.

Armstrong-Clark semi solid Sequoia deck stain

Step 5 — Don’t Skimp on Stain

Now the deck is cleaned and ready to be stained. This is not the time to skimp on your deck or fence staining product. When choosing the fence or deck stain, keep away from the cheap stuff! You will always get what you pay for. Better ingredients cost more money.  (This is why a T-bone costs more than a Chuck steak from the same cow.) If you expect professional staining results then you’ll need to buy a professional product. There is a difference in quality when it comes to resins, pigments, mildewcides and many of the other materials that make up a gallon of wood stain, so choose a quality product.

Step 6—Look at Oil Based Stains

Oil based stains are still the best product on the market. Formulations have changed over the years, because air-quality regulations have forced manufacturers to really focus on these products, and I believe that most are better, more durable and longer lasting than water-based alternatives. Besides, they offer some real advantages to the user. Professional deck stains and sealers do not have to be stripped every time you need to do a maintenance coat. They are also more opaque than their water based counter parts. This reduces the need to use more chemicals just to refinish your deck. This (in my opinion) makes them much easier on good ole Mother Earth. If you like the look of the wood grain, then an oil based stain should be your choice. In addition, some of the oil based stains are synthetic or made from things like linseed or paraffinic oils. A professional oil based deck stain will NOT form a film on the surface of the wood like their cheaper or water based counterparts.

Step 7 — Follow the Directions

Every stain manufacturer’s product can be different, so always read the directions. It only takes a few minutes. It will ensure that you have the right information before you get started, such as; how to apply … how long to wait between coats … how long to wait after cleaning … how long to allow wood to dry. There are many variations of answers to these questions. Read the label first and get it right the first time.

Step 8 — More is NOT Better

Decks are best stained with a semi-transparent oil stain, which keep the water out but allows the natural grain of the wood to show through. These stains also allow the wood to breathe.  Pay attention to the manufacturer’s directions and don’t over-apply these products.  Only apply as much stain as the wood can easily absorb.

Step 9 — The Paint Brush is your Friend

There are many different ways to apply the stain — sprayers and rollers are two popular methods. However, always keep a paint brush handy. Nothing works as well to get the stain deep into the pores of a board like a paint brush. Whether you are spraying or rolling, always back-brush it in while the stain is still wet. You’ll achieve much better penetration into the wood.

Step 10 — Last but not Least

At the beginning of this article, I told you to take your time. Keep it up until the end. When your deck or fence staining project is finally finished, give it little more time before you start using it. Let your deck dry out well (usually around 72 hours). Let the stain cure before subjecting it to furniture and foot traffic. You have done everything correct up to this point, don’t get impatient now.

That’s all there is to it — Since you followed these 10 easy deck staining tips, you now have a professional looking finish on your deck or fence to enjoy for years to come.

About the Author: Xtreme Maintenance operates their deck and fence staining service out of Helena, Montana. You can visit their site at xtrememaintenance.com or call them at 406-465-9334 for  a free no obligation quote.

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